Dyeing underwear, alusasujen värjäämistä

I’ve been continuing my bra making experiments and have perfected my pattern based on the Harriet bra of Cloth Habit. Amy of Cloth Habit has also experimented with dyes for her underwear. Inspired by her I did some research and found a dye – iDye Poly – that can be used for the synthetic fabrics that bras are made of. With this in mind I’ve been making white lingerie that’s just been waiting to get dipped into the dye pot.

This is what I started with: four bras, all self made, and four pairs of undies, two of which were store bought. To test the colours I also made little swatches of the fabrics I’d used.

First I had to melt the packets of dye – separately so that I could mix the liquids to my liking. I dissolved the pink packet first and put the liquid dye into a jar. While rincing the pot I decided to try out if the nearly clear liquid would colour my fabric. To my surprise the lycra sucked the colour immediately and with that tiny bit of dye I got a very vibrant hue! Next I dissolved the yellow packet and poured half of the liquid into another jar to wait. With another piece of lycra I tried out the colour, but the yellow didn’t dye the material at all as deeply as the pink dye. I kept dipping the piece back into the solution, which was considerably richer than the almost clear liquid that had dyed the pink swatch, but the colour remained quite pale. Both experiment pieces in the picture above.

Väritilkut

I didn’t want yellow or even orange for the lingerie. More like a coral was what I was aiming for first. I added just a few drops of the pink dye stuff to my pot of yellow and as I suspected the pink overran the yellow.

Oranssi väri

The first batch which was in the dye bath for just a couple of minutes resulted in the orangy colour you can see in the picture below. For the second set (the dye bath of which you can see in the picture above) I added more pink and got the really vibrant coral pink in the bottom right-hand corner. Next I poured most of the dye out and added water to dilute the solution. I quickly dipped in the pants of the next set for a soft dusty rose and then the bra separately. Not a very good result since the lace wasn’t taking the dye at all and I had to keep the bra in the liquid a lot longer to get a hint of the pink to stick. This resulted in the spandex and elastics being completely “pinked” so the bra is two coloured. Last I had a lace set that I knew would absorb the colour well. I went for a very diluted dye bath, which resulted in a baby pink, not quite my thing… So I added a tiny bit of grey I had saved from an earlier project and got the light lilac colour. Last I dipped the first orange set in again which changed it a little more towards the salmon pink I think I prefer.

Oranssit liivit

A lot of fun and lovely colours! I’ll definitely make more “whites” – to be coloured 🤗

Liivit kuivumassa
2019-06-15-14-58-26

Silk beauties, silkki-ihanuuksia

One of my biggest treasures is a lace petticoat of my grandmother’s. It has sumptuous Chantilly lace inserts, an embroidered monogram with her initials and is absolutely beautifully hand sewn. I renewed my old silk nightgown (which somehow had shrunk in the cupboard) by adding a tatted lace edging to the neckline and copying the embroidered monogram. My daughter is named after my grandmother and happens to have the same initials so the nightie will end up in her wardrobe. As for the petticoat it’s part of my future museum collection 😉

The old petticoat comes down to the knee and drapes beautifully as it’s cut on the bias except for the top front where the lace inserts are. The colour is a very light beige to match the luxurious lace.

The front with darts.
The back is slighly narrower with an angle in the seam.
Decorative embroidered seam and lace attachment.
Seams from the inside.

The cross seams and the lace are both sewn with a decorative double stitch, a kind of hemstitch and makes a pretty little row of holes in the seamline. The raw edges are finished with a whipstitch.

The silk has been cut away from under the bigger bits of lace.
The darts from the inside in the middle seam.
The bottom hem and French seam at the sides.

The French seams at the sides are sewn with tiny backstitches. In my twenties I wore this underskirt as a party top and took in the upper part of the side seams for a better fit. The material started to wear thin in many places so the slip had to be moved into the memento department.

Side seam taken in.
The beautiful stitching inside.
The shoulder straps are attached to the silk.
Gütermann 100%silk 300/3

The original monogram and my reproduction on the right. For the embroidery I had some old Gütermann silk thread. Unfortunately the ink from the marker pen didn’t wash off completely so I’m hoping it will fade!

Here’s the renewed nightgown. It’s made of very similar silk and also cut on the bias, hence the extra triangles at the hem. It’s nearly full length with a slit at the side front where the little bow is. The narrow tatted lace edging is an old handkerchief lace pattern. For thread I used my grandmother’s old tatting cotton (DMC Cordonnet 70) which was suitably discoloured to an off white so as to match the silk.

Pattern: R 3-3-5, ch 5-5

Two simple hankerchief lace edgings from Free Vintage Crochet.

Isoäitini vanha alushame, jota joskus nuorena käytin juhlatoppina on suurimpia aarteitani. Se on todella upeasti käsin ommeltu silkistä ja ylellisestä Chantilly-tyylisestä pitsistä. Miehustaan kirjaillut nimikirjaimet ovat sattumoisin samat kuin tyttärelläni, joten hänelle lahjoitan vanhan silkkisen yöpaitani, jonka tuunasin alushameesta kopioidulla monogrammilla ja kapealla sukkulapitsillä.

Bralette, kevyet rintaliivit

Bralette

This sporty but feminine bralette was quick to sew and easy to fit. The free pattern by Madalynne Intimates is called Barrett and comes with complete and comprehensive sewing instructions. Madalynne has a wonderful site all about lingerie.

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Kevyet bralette liivit valmistuivat parissa tunnissa. Kauniin ja ilmaisen kaavan löysin Madalynne Intimates sivustolta. Malli on yksinkertainen ja helppo, myös istuvuuden säätämisen osalta.

 

Materiaaleina käytin mustaa leveää joustopitsinauhaa ja vuoriin kevyesti joustavaa verkkomaista alusvaatetrikoota. Omasta rintaliiviprojektistani oli jäänyt juuri sopivan mittainen tukevampi kuminauha etukappaleen alareunaan. Muut reunat kanttasin kevyellä taitettavalla kuminauhalla ja sitä samaa käytin olkainten ompeluun yhdistämällä kaksi vierekkäistä kuminauhaa.

Kolmio

Kaavojen yhteydessä on seikkaperäiset englanninkieliset ohjeet, joten rohkeasti vaan ompelemaan!

Sewing underwear, rintaliivien ompelua

Liivit

I’ve been working on this fun project for some time! It took many trials and errors but I finally finished my first bra. I will use this pattern to sew many more. Maybe with some handmade lace? 🙂

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Monien yritysten ja mallikappaleiden jälkeen sain vihdoinkin valmiiksi ensimmäiset itse ompelemani rintaliivit. Näitä taitaa alkaa syntyä liukuhihnalta. Ehkä jotkut itse tekemäni pitsinpätkätkin pääsevät vielä käyttöön 🙂

Pitsi

This length of raspberry coloured lace caught my eye a couple of years ago at a sale and I bought it thinking I might some day use it to sew myself some lingerie. Encouraged by this blog post about lingerie making and material suppliers I finally ordered a pattern. Despite taking careful measurements  the first one was way too big. This bra is made with the “Harriet” pattern from Cloth Habit – which also needed some alterations before a perfect fit.

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Tämä vadelmanpunainen pitsi-ihanuus löytyi pari vuotta sitten alelaatikosta. Ostin sen alusvaateprojekti mielessä, mutta vasta luettuani blogipostauksen alusvaatteiden ompelemisesta ja materiaalien nettitoimittajista Katjan Withmyhandsdream sivustolta, uskalsin tarttua haasteeseen. Yhden vikaostoksen jälkeen sain tilattua sopivan kaavan Cloth Habit nettisivustolta. “Harriet”-mallin kaavaan tein vielä joitain säätöjä jotta sain täydellisesti sopivat liivit.

 

The package of bra materials and the underwires are from makebra.com. The Basic Kit Plus consists of ten different materials, including four different types of elastic band. I didn’t count how many seams there were to sew but I enjoyed the challenge and the bra is lovely!

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Tilasin makebra.com:n kautta tarvikepaketin jossa oli kymmentä eri materiaalia, mm.  neljää erilaista kuminauhaa. Lisäksi tarvittiin kaarituet, jotka sain samalta toimittajalta. Monen monta ompeluvaihetta on näinkin pienessä vaatekappaleessa, mutta hauskaa oli ja liiveistä tuli ihanat!

Kulma