Silk beauties, silkki-ihanuuksia

One of my biggest treasures is a lace petticoat of my grandmother’s. It has sumptuous Chantilly lace inserts, an embroidered monogram with her initials and is absolutely beautifully hand sewn. I renewed my old silk nightgown (which somehow had shrunk in the cupboard) by adding a tatted lace edging to the neckline and copying the embroidered monogram. My daughter is named after my grandmother and happens to have the same initials so the nightie will end up in her wardrobe. As for the petticoat it’s part of my future museum collection ūüėČ

The old petticoat comes down to the knee and drapes beautifully as it’s cut on the bias except for the top front where the lace inserts are. The colour is a very light beige to match the luxurious lace.

The front with darts.
The back is slighly narrower with an angle in the seam.
Decorative embroidered seam and lace attachment.
Seams from the inside.

The cross seams and the lace are both sewn with a decorative double stitch, a kind of hemstitch and makes a pretty little row of holes in the seamline. The raw edges are finished with a whipstitch.

The silk has been cut away from under the bigger bits of lace.
The darts from the inside in the middle seam.
The bottom hem and French seam at the sides.

The French seams at the sides are sewn with tiny backstitches. In my twenties I wore this underskirt as a party top and took in the upper part of the side seams for a better fit. The material started to wear thin in many places so the slip had to be moved into the memento department.

Side seam taken in.
The beautiful stitching inside.
The shoulder straps are attached to the silk.
G√ľtermann 100%silk 300/3

The original monogram and my reproduction on the right. For the embroidery I had some old G√ľtermann silk thread. Unfortunately the ink from the marker pen didn’t wash off completely so I’m hoping it will fade!

Here’s the renewed nightgown. It’s made of very similar silk and also cut on the bias, hence the extra triangles at the hem. It’s nearly full length with a slit at the side front where the little bow is. The narrow tatted lace edging is an old handkerchief lace pattern. For thread I used my grandmother’s old tatting cotton (DMC Cordonnet 70) which was suitably discoloured to an off white so as to match the silk.

Pattern: R 3-3-5, ch 5-5

Two simple hankerchief lace edgings from Free Vintage Crochet.

Isoäitini vanha alushame, jota joskus nuorena käytin juhlatoppina on suurimpia aarteitani. Se on todella upeasti käsin ommeltu silkistä ja ylellisestä Chantilly-tyylisestä pitsistä. Miehustaan kirjaillut nimikirjaimet ovat sattumoisin samat kuin tyttärelläni, joten hänelle lahjoitan vanhan silkkisen yöpaitani, jonka tuunasin alushameesta kopioidulla monogrammilla ja kapealla sukkulapitsillä.

Lace shawls, pitsihuiveja

Huivit

It took me just over a year to knit this woollen lace shawl, on the left. The one with the bigger circles is an older version knitted with linen thread. I love the delicate look of them both.

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Vuoden uurastuksen jälkeen sain vihdoin villaisen vasemman puolisen huivin valmiiksi. Toinen isompikuvioinen on parin vuoden takaa ja neulottu pellavalangasta. Molemmissa on kaunis herkkä kuvio joihin tykästyin jo heti mallin nähdessäni.

The pattern for this new one is from my French book on Shetland shawls written by¬† Japanese Shimada Toshiyuki. The original pattern is for a semicircular scarf. Apparently he spent quite a while working the pattern out. I’m not surprised, I had to carefully follow the diagram for quite a few pattern repeats before I got it although the repeat is only actually 4 rows high with 6 stitches. On the bottom right you can see the unblocked surface, the other photos are of the stretched out shawl where the little circles come out very defined.

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Villaisen huivin malli on japanilaisen Shimada Toshiyukin kirjasta. Monet shetlantilaiset vanhat neulemallit heräävät hänen käsissään kauniisti uudelleen eloon. Tämän mallin selvittäminen oli kuulemma aikamoinen haaste, eikä ihme Рminä ehdin neuloa pitkät pätkät ennen kuin olin hoksannut mallikerran jujun vaikka se on vaan neljän rivin korkuinen ja kuuden silmukan levyinen. Oikeassa alakulmassa näkyy sotkuista neulottua pintaa ennen pingottamista ja muissa kuvissa valmiin huivin pienet renkaat tulevatkin selvästi esille.

The yarns for both my shawls are from Tallinn so instead of the semicircular form of the book’s Shetland shawl I decided to use the traditional Estonian rectangular 1:3 design (without the pointy edge though). I also have a book on Haapsalu shawls and it seems that Estonian and Shetland versions are very similar, light and delicate yet warm and protective woollen lace. The quality of the yarn is astonishing, how can such a thin thread be so strong! My shawl weighs just under 90g and measures about 55×180 cm. And fits easily inside my wedding ring like a true Haapsalu shawl is supposed to ūüôā

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Ostin langat itse asiassa molempiin huiveihin sattumoisin Tallinnasta. Villalanka on Haapsalun huiveja ja huivilankoja myyv√§st√§ liikkeest√§ vanhassa kaupungissa. Lanka itse on todellinen kehr√§√§j√§ taidonn√§yte: miten villasta saakin niin hienoa ja ohutta lankaa, joka lis√§ksi on todella lujaa! Shetlantilaisen puolipy√∂re√§n huivin sijaan p√§√§tinkin sitten neuloa perinteisen virolaisen suorakaiteen muotoisen huivin, ilman suippok√§rkist√§ reunapitsi√§ tosin. Mittasuhteet eli 1:3 ovat kutakuinkin kohdillaan. Haapsalun huivit, kuten shetlantilaiset l√§hisukulaisensa, ovat henk√§yksen ohuita ja keveit√§. Yksi 100g villavyyhti riitt√§√§ ja minun huivini painaa v√§h√§n alle 90g.¬† Huivi mahtuu my√∂s helposti sormukseni l√§pi kuten kuuluukin ūüôā

The other shawl is one that I’ve worn a lot, despite the fact that at over 3 metres it’s too long. This is due to the weight of the linen which also distorts the pattern. As you can see in the lower photo the circles keep their shape better when they hang crosswise.¬† The two ply linen was originally off white but whitened beautifully in the machine on a hot cycle with some whites’ washing powder! This too was quite a complicated pattern and required a lot of attention. But I love the look of the lace so maybe I’ll knit another one with lace wool which keeps it’s shape better.

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Pellavainen huivi on ollut kovassa käytössä. Malli on neulottu monta vuotta vanhan Suuri Käsityö -lehden ohjeen mukaan ja on myös aika monimutkainen. Lanka oli alunperin luonnonvalkoista pellavaa,  mutta valmiin huivin sain tehokkaasti valkaistua 90 asteen pesuohjelmalla ja valkopyykille tarkoitetulla pesuaineella. Pellavan paino vetää huivia pituussuunnassa ja käytössä kolmen metrin mitta on oikeastaan liiankin pikä. Kuten yllä alimmasta kuvasta näkyy, malli tulisi myös kauniimmin esille jos neule olisi poikittain. Ehkä seuraava huivini on ohuesta villalangasta tällä kuviolla neulottu sillä villainen huivi näyttää pitävän muotonsa paremmin.

Sormus

Bralette, kevyet rintaliivit

Bralette

This sporty but feminine bralette was quick to sew and easy to fit. The free pattern by Madalynne Intimates is called Barrett and comes with complete and comprehensive sewing instructions. Madalynne has a wonderful site all about lingerie.

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Kevyet bralette liivit valmistuivat parissa tunnissa. Kauniin ja ilmaisen kaavan löysin Madalynne Intimates sivustolta. Malli on yksinkertainen ja helppo, myös istuvuuden säätämisen osalta.

 

Materiaaleina käytin mustaa leveää joustopitsinauhaa ja vuoriin kevyesti joustavaa verkkomaista alusvaatetrikoota. Omasta rintaliiviprojektistani oli jäänyt juuri sopivan mittainen tukevampi kuminauha etukappaleen alareunaan. Muut reunat kanttasin kevyellä taitettavalla kuminauhalla ja sitä samaa käytin olkainten ompeluun yhdistämällä kaksi vierekkäistä kuminauhaa.

Kolmio

Kaavojen yhteydessä on seikkaperäiset englanninkieliset ohjeet, joten rohkeasti vaan ompelemaan!

Sewing underwear, rintaliivien ompelua

Liivit

I’ve been working on this fun project for some time! It took many trials and errors but I finally finished my first bra. I will use this pattern to sew many more. Maybe with some handmade lace? ūüôā

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Monien yritysten ja mallikappaleiden j√§lkeen sain vihdoinkin valmiiksi ensimm√§iset itse ompelemani rintaliivit. N√§it√§ taitaa alkaa synty√§ liukuhihnalta. Ehk√§ jotkut itse tekem√§ni pitsinp√§tk√§tkin p√§√§sev√§t viel√§ k√§ytt√∂√∂n ūüôā

Pitsi

This length of raspberry coloured lace caught my eye a couple of years ago at a sale and I bought it thinking I might some day use it to sew myself some lingerie. Encouraged by this blog post about lingerie making and material suppliers I finally ordered a pattern. Despite taking careful measurements¬† the first one was way too big. This bra is made with the “Harriet” pattern from Cloth Habit – which also needed some alterations before a perfect fit.

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T√§m√§ vadelmanpunainen pitsi-ihanuus l√∂ytyi pari vuotta sitten alelaatikosta. Ostin sen alusvaateprojekti mieless√§, mutta vasta luettuani blogipostauksen alusvaatteiden ompelemisesta ja materiaalien nettitoimittajista Katjan Withmyhandsdream sivustolta, uskalsin tarttua haasteeseen. Yhden vikaostoksen j√§lkeen sain tilattua sopivan kaavan Cloth Habit nettisivustolta. “Harriet”-mallin kaavaan tein viel√§ joitain s√§√§t√∂j√§ jotta sain t√§ydellisesti sopivat liivit.

 

The package of bra materials and the underwires are from makebra.com. The Basic Kit Plus consists of ten different materials, including four different types of elastic band. I didn’t count how many seams there were to sew but I enjoyed the challenge and the bra is lovely!

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Tilasin makebra.com:n kautta tarvikepaketin jossa oli kymmentä eri materiaalia, mm.  neljää erilaista kuminauhaa. Lisäksi tarvittiin kaarituet, jotka sain samalta toimittajalta. Monen monta ompeluvaihetta on näinkin pienessä vaatekappaleessa, mutta hauskaa oli ja liiveistä tuli ihanat!

Kulma

More reticello practice,lis√§√§ harjoituksia

Isompi

A new try of reticello with slighly bigger squares of around 2 cm each. Just about the right size for my son’s historic collar.

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Uusia reticello kokeiluja vähän isommilla ruuduilla. Reilun 2 cm kokoisina ne ovat suunnilleen sopivia historialliseen kaulukseen jota suunnittelen pojalleni.

Kokeiluja

Here’s my sampler onto which I’m outlining a little square doily next. The unevenness of the linen thread is causing some problems, but maybe it will just be part of the attraction?! I am slowly getting more familiar with the work –¬† even with the venetian picots…

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T√§ss√§ mallikappaleeni johon hahmottelen seuraavaksi pienen liinan kulmia. Pellavalangan ep√§tasaisuus aiheuttaa v√§lill√§ ongelmia, mutta ehk√§ se t√§ytyy hyv√§ksy√§ osaksi ty√∂n vieh√§tyst√§?! Pikkuhiljaa alkaa erilaisten kuvioiden, ja jopa nyppyjen tekeminen sujua…

 

Some new linen pillowcases are also getting decorated.

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Uudet pellavaiset tyynyliinat saavat myös kirjaillut koristeet.

Puolikas kuvio

Reticello practice/harjoituksia

9 squares1

I’ve started my reticello practice with the help of the new books I ordered from Italy. The author Giuliana Buonpadre is a distinguished teacher and reviver of old needlework techniques. She has a beautiful website called Filofil√≤.

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Tilasin Italiasta käsityökirjoja niiden kirjoittajan Giuliana Buonpadren nettisivujen kautta. Hän on arvostettu vanhojen käsityötekniikoiden opettaja ja uudistaja. Reticello-kirjan opatuksella pääsin hyvin jyvälle tämän vanhan revinnäistekniikan saloista.

Il libro

My first attempt below looks quite clumsy (at least blown up like this!) You need good lighting and a good pair of glasses/eyes. The linen I’m using here is a little too fine, about 20 threads to the cm instead of the 15 Giuliana Buonpadre suggests. You can see I’ve struggled with the thread count etc.

The light blue sewing tread is an Anchor Mercer Crochet 80 / Fil¬†√† Dentelles cotton, of which I bought 15 balls from a sale! Maybe to be used for some Hardanger later on since I bought that book too ūüôā 3 sqares

The next try was with a linen thread since I’m planning to make a 17th century style collar with this technique and the historical pieces probably would have been made with linen. This finnish bobbin lace thread worked pretty well (Pella nypl√§yslanka 60×3), quite even for a linen and not getting muddled too easily.

Mitan kanssa

Here are the preparatory stages: counting and removing the guide threads, whip stitching the edge, four sided stitch to reinforce, and weave stitch to cover the bars that remain.

 

On with the needle lace to fill the squares. For my collar I’ll need bigger holes! I’ve also ordered some mercerized linen thread – we’ll see how that works…

Neulapitsit

Tatted mobile, ikkunakoriste k√§pypitsist√§

Pitsiketju

This lovely little decoration was amongst the treasures I found in the old sewing box of my friend’s mother. It’s made up of six ornaments, three different kinds of tatted motifs tied together.

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Tämä kaunis käpypitsikoriste löytyi ystävättäreni äidin vanhan ompelulaatikon kätköistä. Kuusi kuviota, kolme erilaista, on solmittu ketjuksi.

 

 

Here are the individual motifs. I counted the stitches and remade them out of no. 20 DMC Cordonnet, about the same thickness as the original ones.

Laskin silmukkamäärät koristeisiin ja tein uudet kappaleet. Lankana DMC Cordonnet nro 20 joka on suunnilleen saman paksuista kuin alkuperäisissä.

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The simplest motif has rings and chains alternating, both with 6 sets of four double stitches.

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Yksinkertaisimmassa mallissa on ketjuja ja renkaita vuorotellen. Molemmissa on kuusi neljän kaksoissolmun ryhmää.

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The square has little rings of 6-6 connected with chains of different sizes. I started mine with a ring (R1) continuing clockwise with the chain (C1)… so that I could finish in the corner and make a split chain to leave the thread ends in the middle.

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Neliön muotoisen kuvion aloitin 6-6 renkaalla R1 ja siitä myötäpäivään oikealle niin, että sain viimeiseksi tehtyä jaetun ketjun kuvion kulmaan.

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The third design is a little more complicated. The beginning is tatted with one shuttle. The center ring (8x3ds), then eight rings (5-3-3-5) around it attaching the thread to the picots of the center ring after each ring. Here below is the beginning of this motif with the thread end tucked inside the six first double stitches.

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Kolmas kuvio on v√§h√§n monimutkaisempi. Keskusrenkaan (8×3) ymp√§rille tehd√§√§n kahdeksan rengasta jotka kiinnittyv√§t joka v√§liss√§ alemman renkaan nirkkoihin. T√§ss√§ alla kuvion aloitusrengas. Langanp√§√§n pujotin kuuden ensimm√§isen tuplasilmukan alle.

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The last of these eight rings is a split ring so that you can move onto the next row. For the split ring, and the rest of the motif I encorporated a second shuttle thread. I tied the end to the space in the beginning of the center ring so as to get a symmetrical “foot” for this last ring too.

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Alla kuvassa viimeinen rengas ty√∂n alla. Se on jaettu rengas jotta p√§√§st√§√§n seuraavalle riville katkaisematta lankoja. Sit√§ varten, ja loppukuviota varten lis√§sin toisen sukkulan. Sen langanp√§√§n solmin keskusrenkaan aloituskohtaan. Samalla sain toisen “jalan” viimeiselle renkaalle jotta se asettuisi symmetrisemmin.

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The last two rounds are attached to the same picots of the rings. The little chains that are marked as 4 on the pattern I would make a little longer, maybe 5 or 6.

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Kaksi viimeistä kierrosta kiinnitetään samoihin renkaiden keskimmäisiin nirkkoihin. Mallissa merkityt 4 silmukkaa voisi pidentää mielestäni ainakin viiteen silmukkaan.

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A pretty and wintery decoration ‚ĚĄ¬†Kaunis ja herkk√§ talvinen koriste.

17th century cuffs, 1600-luvun kalvosimet

2017-10-09-15-13-38

The cuffs for my son’s 17th century outfit are ready.¬†That was the easy part. Next I’ll be making him a reticello collar – a huge project compared to these cuffs!

2017-10-09-15-22-27

The cuffs are made of thin linen. First I finished the edges with a rolled hem and then sewed the needle lace straight onto the hem. Little pleats mold the cuffs into shape and with the added wristband the cuffs are attached to the sleeves of a jacket. I’ll make a post about the technique for the needle lace later (click here to see the post) . Quite easy ūüėČ

Here are some pictures of cuffs of that era. On the left you can also see an example of the kind of collar I’ll be tackling next!

2017-10-09-15-18-35Finished just in time for my son’s trip to “the Battle for Grolle”¬†! ūüėČ

Reticello lace

Reticella neliö valmis

I am absolutely fascinated by lace! After acquiring some more books on the subject, I had to try my hand at reticello, a needle lace that dates back to the 16th century. You know – huge, opulent collars of kings and queens of that era, Elisabeth I for example – that’s reticello! The original reticello was cutwork made onto a woven linen fabric by pulling most of the threads out. The resulting squares were filled with tiny geometric designs. What I practiced is an evolved version where the lace is made onto a pattern that is later removed. Punto in aria or “stitch in the air” it’s called.

These are some of the books I bought this past summer. The first two in France. I couldn’t resist the beautiful Japanese book on Shetland shawls. The other one is a good guide to needle lace, describing a technique much like the one I used for my little square sampler. The finnish books are from a fabulous lace exhibition at the Salo Art Museum. The top one is the exhibition catalogue, with a concise history of lace and some wonderful pictures of the many different styles of lace they had on display. The exhibit also showed some contemporary lace art eg. by a Finnish lace artist Tarmo Thorstr√∂m.¬†Reticella ja mallitThe start of my work and some antique pieces of reticello from the exhibition catalog. The pattern I used is from an antique DMC Library book “NEEDLE-MADE LACES 1st Series”, Th. de Dillmont editor, Mulhouse.

The base has three layers. A double thickness of plain cotton sheeting, a piece of paper with the pattern drawn onto it and a green plastic film. These are all first stitched together. Then supporting stitches are made through which the basic threads of the actual lace are sewn. These threads are covered with buttonhole stitches or just overcasting. When the piece is ready the supporting stitches are cut from the underside and removed. I’m sure all the stitches are not supposed to be worked like this. My work has way too many supporting stitches for example, and one big flaw is the tension which is too tight along the outer edge. I need to find another book for reference… And the right thread for this work.

Reticella neli√∂ irroitettunaMy husband often asks me what am I making. Sometimes I have no answer except “well… lace”. But now I do have an actual project in mind that this little square was good practice for: in my fervour I promised my son to try and make some cuffs and a collar in reticello and punto in aria for his historical costume. We shall¬†see what year I’ll manage to finish them!

If you want to find out more about this subject go and have a look at Jeanine’s fantastic blog Italian Needlework . She really has put an amazing amount of work into her research!

Renewing chairs with lace, ulkotuolien uudistusta virkkaamalla

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We bought some synthetic wicker chairs for the terrace some years ago which, not surprisingly, didn’t last very long. The metal frame though¬†was in perfect condition so I decided to redo the seat and back with some crocheted pieces.

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Sain ajatuksen näiden tuolien korjaamiseen sisustuslehden kansikuvan tuolista johon oli punottu leveää satulanauhaa kauniiksi ristikkäiskuvioksi. Se olisi ollut vaikea toteuttaa kotikonstein, mutta virkatun kappaleen sain helposti pingotettua metallikehikkoon.

 

We had bought the white chairs first, but didn’t like the way they stood out from the terrace on the sea shore. The cheaper brown chairs camouflaged well but after just two years started to fray. I bought some grey fishing twine to crochet new covers with and stretched them onto the frame using slightly thicker rope, much in the the same manner as the white chairs are constructed.

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Ensimmäiseksi hankitut valkoiset tuolit pistivät silmään rantakallioiden keskeltä joten hankimme halvemmat paremmin maastoutuvat muoviset rottinkijäljitelmätuolit. Parin vuoden päästä ne jo alkoivat purkautua ja oli keksittävä korjauskeino. Ostin harmaata nylon kalastuslankaa, josta virkkasin uudet istuin- ja selkänojapalat. Vahvemmalla narulla kiristin verkot metallikehikkoon hyvin samaan tapaan kuin valkoisten tuolien päälliset on kiinnitetty.

2017-08-05-12-37-17The crochet pattern is very simple. I started with a chain, which when stretched out was about 6 cm narrower than the intended width. Three chain stitches followed by 3 doubles going one way, five trebles into the chain and one double in the middle double stitch on the way back. The pieces stretch a LOT, so it’s better to make them too small than too big! The first one I made can’t really be stretched anymore and has become a little too loose…

2017-08-04-00-21-40Virkkauskuvio on yksinkertainen. Aloitin ketjusilmukkarivillä, joka oli venytettynä kuutisen senttiä kapeampi kuin istuimen alareunan leveys. Kolme ketjusilmukkaa ja kolme kiinteää vuorotellen parillisilla riveillä, viisi pylvästä ketjuun ja yksi kiinteä silmukka keskimmäiseen kiinteään silmukkaan parittomilla riveillä. Ensimmäinen kappale jonka virkkasin oli liian iso. Kappale venyi todella reilusti asennusvaiheessa ja kun sitä vielä kiristettiin jonkun päivän käytön jälkeen, oli se niin isoksi venynyt ettei sitä enempää voi kiristääkään.

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Here you can see how much the piece stretches. The seat covers that were made a few years ago have faded quite a bit but I still have high hopes that they will be of service to us for many more years to come ūüôā

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T√§st√§ n√§kee kuinka kappaleet venyv√§t pingottaessa. Pari vuotta k√§yt√∂ss√§ ollut tuolinp√§√§llinen on jo haalistunut mutta toivon ett√§ se silti kest√§√§ viel√§ pitk√§√§n k√§yt√∂ss√§. Eip√§ tarvitse n√§it√§ toimittaa viel√§ kaatopaikalle ūüôā

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