Puncetto Valsesiano, a traditional needle lace from Northern Italy

I’m continuing my needle lace experiments. These squares are another type of needle lace, Puncetto Valsesiano. It’s a traditional lace made in the Valsesia area of Piedmonte, Italy. Made with just needle and thread, it is also called a ‘freehand’ lace. Tiny knots and loops are made in rows going back and forth, forming a pattern that’s normally based on a grid. I discovered this type of lace this past summer. By coincidence, I had a chance to visit Valsesia a few weeks ago. Before our holiday in Italy, I of course had to try my hand at this lace!

For anyone interested in the actual method I warmly recommend Jeanine’s fantastic blog ‘Italian Needlework’. She has written 20 extensive posts on this topic, covering the basics, tips for making the lace, links and loads of history connected.

I first practiced squares, spiders and diagonals on a narrow band. Getting the stitch count right seams to be the hardest part! Another head ache is changing the thread when you run out.

Next I tried a thinner thread. I found the patterns on the Puncetto Valsesiano net site under ‘Tecnica‘. Most of these squares are made with a #20 crochet cotton. DMC Cordonnet is perfect as it’s sturdy, tightly twisted and strong, so it doesn’t weaken too much while being worked over and over again. The smallest sampler is made with DMC Cordonnet 100. Too thin for me and my needles!

To start a square you first make a long strip which becomes the bottom selvage (here from right to left). Then you turn this 90 degrees and begin the design by sewing the knots onto the side of this selvage. The square is finished with the top selvage which is made by turning the work again and working two stitches backwards and forwards to the top left hand corner. The square on the left was made with #20 thread and has 28 punti or knots to start with. The smaller one with #80 tread has 22 punti. Just about manageable!

It took some time to decipher the pattern code but after studying the books, I’m beginning to understand in which order the squares are made. I have also changed to a blunt pointed needle. The ladies in the needlework shops of Varallo insured me that Puncetto is made with a normal sewing needle, but I find the work easier with a blunt-tipped tapestry needle. It doesn’t split the thread quite as often.

In the second book I found the pattern for the ‘stellina’ I had bought. The rather unusual arches of the pattern appeal to me more than the strictly geometric shapes. The coloured square is my version.

Before moving on to something else I might try to decorate a little doily with a puncetto insertion and an edging. The coloured thread would look pretty on white cloth.

Puncetto Valsesiano has its own website, in Italian only. But in the ‘Storia’ section for example you can find wonderful pictures of how Puncetto is used in traditional costumes and as decoration for linen.

Great information and links for different languages are also to be found here on the LaceNews page.

One more tip from me: very high quality blunt tipped tapestry needles that are small enough for this work, can be found on the French net site of Bohin. I’ve been using the #26. Fast delivery too 😊

Here are some photos from our trip to Valsesia. The valley is beautiful and the old town of Varallo very picturesque. On the hills above the town is the Sacro Monte di Varallo, the oldest of the nine UNESCO listed ‘Sacri Monti’ in Northern Italy. A funicular takes you up to admire the basilica, chapels, gardens and the wonderful view over the town. Yet another magnificent sight which I wouldn’t have discovered without my interest in lace!