Knitted historical stockings, ohuet 1600-luvun villasukat

Keltaiset sukat1

I gave these fine stockings to my son’s girlfriend for Christmas to go with her historical clothing (they are both into historical re-enactment and a lot of sewing… but I have the privilege of having been appointed knitter and lacemaker ūüėČ ) The yarn is a wool and tussah silk blend, knitted with 1,75mm needles – the thinnest ones I’ve ever used. A year ago I knitted a similar pair for my son and did some research. The model for these stockings is from the net site of the Swedish Royal Armoury. The old “hose” date back to about 1650, the gauge is much finer and they are made of pure silk.

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Poikani ja h√§nen tytt√∂yst√§v√§ns√§ harrastavat historian el√§v√∂itt√§mist√§ ja ovat itse k√§sin ommelleet upeita asuja harrastuksensa innoittamina. Min√§ saan kunnian toimia “hovi”-kutojana ja -pitsintekij√§n√§ ūüėČ

Poikani tyttöystävälle paketoin jouluna ohuet keltaiset villasukat paksujen 1600-luvun villahameiden alle käytettäväksi. Lankana villan ja tussah silkin sekoite Teeteen Elegant, väri 100, ja puikot 1.75mm Рohuimmat ikinä käyttämäni. Ohjeita hain jo poikani historiallisia villasukkia varten ja näistä tulikin hyvin samantapaiset. Tukholman Kuninkaallisen Museon Livsrustkammarenin kokoelmista löytyi hyvin ohuesta silkistä kudotut sukat noin vuodelta 1650, jotka toimivat näiden vähän hienompien sukkien mallina.

 

Unlike the socks I made for my son these are knitted from the top down. I started  with 16 rows of garter stitch, 30 stitches per needle. 5 stitches wide purl triangles run down next to the 6 stitches of the back seam. In the original stocking the decreases are made next to the purl stitches but here they are inside the motif which makes the triangles sloop down a little. The clock decoration at the ankle is my own adaptation. The heel flap starts quite high up which makes more room for the upper ankle.

The colour is quite a deep yellow, much like the one my son achieved dyeing a thick wool cloth with onion skins. The light conditions at this time of year just won’t do justice to the intensity of the colour!

Keltaiset sukat

Aloitin sukan suusta luomalla yhteensä 120 silmukkaa ja kudoin vuorotellen rivin oikein ja nurin, yhteensä 16 riviä. Takasaumassa on kuuden silmukan (2+2+2) levyinen kaitale alas kantapäähän asti. Sauman kummallakin reunalla kulkee viiden silmukan nurjilla silmukoilla tehty kolmio. Kavennukset, ja pohkeen yläpuolella tehdyt lisäykset on tehty kolmioiden sauman puoleisten silmukoiden kohdalle. Nilkassa on nurjin silmukoin neulottu kuvio, samantapainen kun 1600-luvun sukissa usein näkyy. Kantatilkku alkaa aika korkealta niin, että nilkalle jää vähän enemmän tilaa.

V√§ri on kaunis syv√§n keltainen, vaikka se ei n√§iss√§ valaistusolosuhteissa juuri erotu edukseen. Hyvin saman v√§rinen tuli sipulinkuorilla v√§rj√§tyst√§ paksusta villakankaasta, josta kuulemma tulee viel√§ joskus musket√∂√∂rin takki ūüôā

Gingerbread Pyynikinlinna piparkakkutalo

Keittiön kulma

This Christmas I picked a dear old building as a model for my gingerbread house. It’s an old private town house turned into a museum in a beautiful spot by the lakeside in the city of Tampere. Many, many hours of planning, baking, “plastering”, tiling, window fitting, fixing of lights etc. More about the building in my previous post. This is the street view.

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Monet varmaan jo tunnistivat tämän joulun piparkakkutaloni РPyynikinlinna Tampereella. Rakennusprojekti oli taas tänä vuonna suurempi kuin viimeksi! Siitä lisää edellisessä postauksessa. Tässä yllä piparitalo Palomäentien puolelta.

Pihan puoli

And the garden and lake side   *   Ja Pyhäjärven puolelta.

 

Doors   *   Ovia

 

Windows and curtains   *   Ikkunoita ja verhoja

 

Plastering and railings   *   Stukkokoristeita ja kaiteita

 

Garden   * Puutarhaa

 

Tiles and pavings   *   Kiveyksiä ja tiiliä

 

A thin coat of snow covered the lawns and bushes before the gingerbread¬†house was put on show in the dining room of it’s model. As from tomorrow the museum is open to the public after a holiday break. You can find some info and photos of the real house by looking up “Pyynikinlinna” or visiting the museum’s home site.

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Kun Emil Aaltosen museo avaa huomenna ovensa taas joulutauon jälkeen on piparkakkutalo ruokasalin pöydällä yleisön nähtävänä. Ohut kerros lunta satoi matkan aikana pihanurmelle ja pihakasvien päälle. Museon kotisivuilla kuvia oikeasta Pyynikinlinnasta.

Gingerbread housebuilding, piparkakkutalon rakentelua

Pyynikinlinnan etuovi_v1

This is the facade of this year’s gingerbreadhouse. Still no roof and lots to do but here’s how the project has gone so far…

Kaavoja

Drawing the patterns. This time I had some original blueprints to work with – great!

Cutting and baking the pieces. A lot of different shapes and sizes.

Glueing the windows on next. I started with glucose but then decided on the hard stuff – real sugar melted. Doesn’t look too good on the inside! Decided to paint some curtains in too for the first time ūüôā

It was the first time I also “plastered” the walls. Thicker royal icing for the outlines and slightly runnier to fill in. I didn’t mix the egg white properly for the first batch, so the plastering looks quite authentically uneven on the facade for example.

First time for everything this year: lights inside. I found a battery operated led light that has little starlights every ten centimeters. Perfect for my house!

Pikku palat

To be continued when I’ve finished decorating and putting all these bits and pieces in.

In the meanwhile Happy Holidays everyone!! Love Liisa xxx

Pyynikinlinna etuovi kapea

 

Suomi Finland 100

Suomi 100

Getting ready for tomorrows big celebrations: my long blue dress, the traditional two candles for each window and my lovely blue coffee cup – a gift from my goddaughter . Today I had time for two o’clock coffee along with hundreds of thousands of other Finns! We’ve really thought of all possible ways to honour the centenary of Finland’s independence. If you don’t believe me go and have a look at the official net site suomifinland100.fi .

Join in the celebrations and make a toast to Finland!

17th century cuffs, 1600-luvun kalvosimet

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The cuffs for my son’s 17th century outfit are ready.¬†That was the easy part. Next I’ll be making him a reticello collar – a huge project compared to these cuffs!

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The cuffs are made of thin linen. First I finished the edges with a rolled hem and then sewed the needle lace straight onto the hem. Little pleats mold the cuffs into shape and with the added wristband the cuffs are attached to the sleeves of a jacket. I’ll make a post about the technique for the needle lace later (click here to see the post) . Quite easy ūüėČ

 

Here are some pictures of cuffs of that era. On the left you can also see an example of the kind of collar I’ll be tackling next!

2017-10-09-15-18-35Finished just in time for my son’s trip to “the Battle for Grolle”¬†! ūüėČ

Reticello lace

Reticella neliö valmis

I am absolutely fascinated by lace! After acquiring some more books on the subject, I had to try my hand at reticello, a needle lace that dates back to the 16th century. You know – huge, opulent collars of kings and queens of that era, Elisabeth I for example – that’s reticello! The original reticello was cutwork made onto a woven linen fabric by pulling most of the threads out. The resulting squares were filled with tiny geometric designs. What I practiced is an evolved version where the lace is made onto a pattern that is later removed. Punto in aria or “stitch in the air” it’s called.

 

These are some of the books I bought this past summer. The first two in France. I couldn’t resist the beautiful Japanese book on Shetland shawls. The other one is a good guide to needle lace, describing a technique much like the one I used for my little square sampler. The finnish books are from a fabulous lace exhibition at the Salo Art Museum. The top one is the exhibition catalogue, with a concise history of lace and some wonderful pictures of the many different styles of lace they had on display. The exhibit also showed some contemporary lace art eg. by a Finnish lace artist Tarmo Thorstr√∂m.¬†Reticella ja mallitThe start of my work and some antique pieces of reticello from the exhibition catalog.

 

 

The base has three layers. A double thickness of plain cotton sheeting, a piece of paper with the pattern drawn onto it and a green plastic film. These are all first stitched together. Then supporting stitches are made through which the basic threads of the actual lace are sewn. These threads are covered with buttonhole stitches or just overcasting. When the piece is ready the supporting stitches are cut from the underside and removed. I’m sure all the stitches are not supposed to be worked like this. My work has way too many supporting stitches for example, and one big flaw is the tension which is too tight along the outer edge. I need to find another book for reference… And the right thread for this work.

Reticella neli√∂ irroitettunaMy husband often asks me what am I making. Sometimes I have no answer except “well… lace”. But now I do have an actual project in mind that this little square was good practice for: in my fervour I promised my son to try and make some cuffs and a collar in reticello and punto in aria for his historical costume. We shall¬†see what year I’ll manage to finish them!

If you want to find out more about this subject go and have a look at Jeanine’s fantastic blog Italian Needlework . She really has put an amazing amount of work into her research!

Crocheted star stitch basket and serviette rings, tähtivirkattu kori ja lautasliinarenkaat

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The serviettes needed a storage basket so I crocheted a square one out of some thread I purchased from a sale. I have no idea what the material is, some kind of linen? For the basket I used a double and for the serviette rings below a single thread. Both have a row of ¬†“star stitch”, a very versatile decorative stitch which I have seen used for a lovely shopping basket for example. Instructions below.

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Lautasliinoille tarvittiin säilytyskoria joten virkkasin sellaisen kesällä alennusmyynnistä hankkimastani langasta. En tiedä mitä materiaalia lanka on, ehkä vahattua puuvillaa. Koriin käytin lankaa kaksinkertaisena, serviettirenkaisiin yksinkertaisena. Molempiin tein koristeraidat tähtivirkkauksella (ohje alla).

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The tea cosy is beautifully hand woven, maybe made by some relative in the beginning of the last century. I repaired the torn interior many years ago for my mother. Now it serves in the country and adorns the old worn dresser beautifully.

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Arvelen vanhan kauniin pannumyssyn olevan jonkun vanhan sukulaisen käsin kutomaa villakangasta. Korjasin sen rikki menneen vuorin monta vuotta sitten äidilleni. Nyt se koristaa patinoitunutta vanhaa astiakaappia kesäkodin keittiössä.

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To explain the star stitch I made the serviette rings. They came out quite nicely, although the next ones will probably be ¬†a fraction bigger…

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Seviettirenkaat virkkasin malliksi tähtivirkkauksesta. Se on monikäyttöinen koristeaihe, jonka löysin vanhasta yli sata vuotta vanhasta käsityön oppikirjasta. Kirjasta lisää tässä postauksessa.

 

  • I started with a chain about 14 cm long with an even number of stitches, 24 in this case. Make a circle by joining to the first stitch with a slip stitch.
  • Two rows of double crochet (UK terms), the second row into the back loop of the previous one. Slip stitch to finish the row.
  • To make the star start with 3 chain stitches. Pull the yarn through five times: through the middle stitch of the chain, the one below, the same stitch of the previous row that you started the chain from and the next two of that row, always crocheting into the back loop. Pick up the thread and pull through all six loops. Make one double crochet, which will make the center of the star.
  • Continue this way, the diagram of the old book below shows you where to enter your hook. With every star you advance two stitches.
  • The second row of the star is simple, just two stitches of double crochet into every center of the star. Pull the loop from the center loose so the upper part of your star will match the lower part.
  • Finish off with two rows of double crochet into the back loop and cast off.

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  • Aloita noin 14-15 cm pitk√§ll√§ ketjusilmukkarivill√§ jossa on parillinen m√§√§r√§ silmukoita, t√§ss√§ 24. Kiinnit√§ ympyr√§ksi piilosilmukalla.
  • Virkkaa kaksi rivi√§ kiinteit√§ silmukoita, j√§lkimm√§inen rivi edellisen rivin taaempaan lenkkiin. Rivin viimeiseksi piilosilmukka.
  • Aloita t√§htirivi tekem√§ll√§ 3 ketjusilmukkaa. Ota lanka viisi kertaa koukulle, ensin keskimm√§isen ketjusilmukan l√§pi, sitten sit√§ alemman silmukan, seuraavaksi saman alemman rivin silmukan josta l√§hdit tekem√§√§n ketjusilmukkaa, sitten viel√§ kahden seuraavan silmukan l√§pi, koko ajan vain taaempaan lenkkiin. Ota lanka koukulle ja ved√§ kaikkien kuuden lenkin l√§pi. Tee yksi kiinte√§ silmukka, t√§st√§ syntyy t√§hden keskusta.
  • Jatka samaan tapaan, selke√§ kuva on alla. Minun versiooni on on lis√§tty yksi lenkki ensimm√§isen ja toisen nuolen v√§liin. Ty√∂ etenee joka t√§hdell√§ kahden silmukan verran.¬†Viimeisen t√§hden kiinte√§n silmukan tilalle tulee piilosilmukka ¬†joka kiinnittyy ensimm√§iseen t√§hteen.
  • Seuraavalla rivill√§ tee jokaiseen t√§hden keskustaan kaksi kiinte√§√§ silmukkaa. Ved√§ lenkki keskustasta v√§h√§n pidemm√§ksi niin saat tasaisen pullean t√§hden.
  • Tee lopuksi kaksi rivi√§ kiinteit√§ silmukoita j√§lleen vain taaempaan lenkkiin ja p√§√§ttele ty√∂.

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Here’s a good picture (from my antique needlework book) showing where to insert your hook. In my version you pick up the thread one more time between the first and the second arrow, where you made the last stitch of the previous star. So there’s six yarns on the hook before you pull the thread through.

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